French in Paris

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles, chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room, recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois, controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Two Michelin since 1946, the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.