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Sunset seafood among the Tabakaria tanneries

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for

The locals' seafood ouzeri by the Venetian port

Intimate wine bistro on Theotokopoulou with one of Chania's best lists

A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat

A 15th-century Venetian palace below the Fortezza

Cretan-Ottoman cooking in a 600-year-old hammam off Splantzia

Forgotten Cretan recipes reworked for the modern table

Greek-Levantine cooking down a Splantzia alley with a steam-bath well

Mansion-style Cretan cuisine a block from Peskesi

Gourmet-awarded Cretan home cooking in a century-old house

Cretan cooking on hot bricks in a 1900 old-town house

Fireplace-warm Cretan taverna for a local clientele

Grocer-meze-room on the restored square of Archanes

Wood-fire farm taverna cooking only over fire from its own land

Stone-oven Cretan institution in the centre of Vamos

Clay-pot-over-coals taverna under the plane tree in Gavalochori

Antikristo over open fire in a 200-year-old stone building near Vamos

Tiny market-driven kitchen, the chef's daily haul is the menu

Cretan cooking inside Venetian-Ottoman ruins, open to the sky