Restaurant in London

Eighteenth-century Lexington Street townhouse with a handwritten daily menu, the last romantic room in old Soho

Jacob Kenedy's region-by-region Italian counter on Archer Street, every dish labelled by province, eighteen years deep

A 15-cover Michelin-starred tasting room inside Blue Mountain School, cooking is the only headline

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street, Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.

British ingredients, Mexican grammar, Santiago Lastra's Marylebone manifesto

The Dirik family ocakbaşı since 1994, the canonical Turkish address the audience takes London-Turks to

Nose-to-tail Italian on Curtain Road, house-cured salumi and wood-fired offal in Shoreditch

Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room, the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.

Tomos Parry's Michelin-starred Beak Street wood-fired room, the Basque grill that Brat became Soho-confident in

Rainer Becker's original 2004 robatayaki, the Charlotte Street counter Roka grew from, with Shochu Lounge in the basement

The Cut's no-bookings gastropub, what Waterloo eats before the National Theatre

Hauser & Wirth's reimagined Mayfair pub, Sunday roast under a Phyllida Barlow ceiling

London's longest-standing Michelin-starred pub, Fulham backstreets, game and wild food

Piccadilly's grand café, the Viennese-Parisian brasserie that runs from breakfast to supper

Karam Sethi's Marylebone coastal-Indian, one Michelin star held since 2012

Keith McNally's Russell Street brasserie, the SoHo Manhattan original transposed to Covent Garden, twelve years in.

Adriana Cavita's Marylebone Mexican, generous, regional, unfussy

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café, the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Seymour Place's Basque pintxos counter, the txuleta and the txakoli on the same Marylebone bar

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Beirut's Mireille Hayek inside Harrods, the polished Lebanese set-menu room that translates Em Sherif Beirut's standard for SW1.

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

The British steakhouse that taught London to take beef seriously

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

Sam and Sam Clark's tapas-bar sister to Moro, eight metres along the same row, the small-plate version of the same kitchen.

The larger Greek Street sister, 2020 in the former Gay Hussar room, with a proper kitchen

Paddington Street modern Greek, sister to Athens' two-star Funky Gourmet and the most considered Greek cooking in W1.

Northern Thai with chilli, herbs and proper aggression, Spitalfields

Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail manifesto since 1994, the white-walled Smithfield room that wrote modern British cooking.

Seven seats, one chef, Edomae discipline, London's hardest reservation

Tom Conran's 1995 gastropub, Guinness, oysters and the upstairs dining room that started the Notting Hill genre

A 1708 Chelsea pub on a quiet Lawrence Street corner, ranked among the UK's Top 50 Gastropubs

Mayfair mews chophouse since 1952, beef Wellington and steak-and-kidney pie

Cubitt House's Pimlico Road gastropub-with-rooms, wood-fired pizzas, four upstairs bedrooms, the SW1 corner pub the audience trusts.

The Gladwin Brothers' Old Church Street pub, Sussex-vineyard wines and a tight British seasonal menu

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Lowndes Street's Italian institution since 1995, the Belgravia trattoria that taught London regional pasta