Restaurant in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon — Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Alajmo brothers' Paris outpost in an 1834 letterpress — Italian fine dining behind Philippe Starck's restoration.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro — spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

Madeleine institution since 1927 — the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin — Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière — Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois — controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

Since 1979 on rue des Rosiers — the Pletzl falafel sandwich Lenny Kravitz and Natalie Portman keep coming back for.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry — Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932 — boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V — the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument — Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Slavic luxe in a 1910 Art Nouveau hôtel particulier — Paris Society's caviar address.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Philippe Starck's Mediterranean ground-floor in Evok's 16e flagship.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.