Cafe Frischhut — Schmalznudel

Locals don't call it Cafe Frischhut. They call it Schmalznudel, after the lard-fried yeast pastry the Frischhut family has been turning out at Prälat-Zistl-Strasse since 1973 — crisp shell, pillow centre, a heavy dust of icing sugar. There are also Krapfen at carnival, Striezel year-round, drip coffee in old-German-script porcelain, and a few rustic wooden tables that fill before the morning queue at Viktualienmarkt next door. Cash only. Closed Sundays. The schmalznudel must be eaten within twenty minutes of frying — sit, don't take away.