Adresses in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum, a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

The 1945 İnkılap Caddesi corner where damla sakızlı dondurma was invented, a Mersin family pastane now in its third generation

A working 9.5-dönüm farm puts its own tomatoes, peppers and preserves on a thirty-three-plate table overlooking a waterfall

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge, the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The mastic park north of the village, the peninsula's only living gallery of Pistacia lentiscus and the Sakız Ağacım revival project's home

The original sakızlı muhallebi house, the recipe the rest of the country has spent twenty years trying to copy

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie, a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

Italian-leaning Mediterranean kitchen on the cape, pasta, wood-fired pizza and Aegean fish in a room engineered for long sea-view dinners

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter, a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Since 1993, the fishing-harbour family room that defined Port Alaçatı before the marina arrived around it

The original Şifne address of the Kabak fish dynasty, the quiet one, where the locals still go

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia, the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

Ilıca Hotel's open-deck Aegean room overlooking the thermal bay, the resort coast's most assured kitchen

The 1974 Uğur Mumcu counter where the Çeşme kumru is still pressed the way the family wrote it, tomato, sucuk, kaşar, no shortcuts

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines, own house wine, own jams, own menemen

Roberto Fracasso's Hacımemiş courtyard, the only Alaçatı oven where the pizzaiolo is actually Italian

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village, forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square, herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics

A reservation-only farm garden between Alaçatı and Ovacık where the orange-cured olives alone earn the trip