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Kifissia French-Greek tasting room, Hervé Pronzato's one-Michelin star.

Onassis Cultural Centre rooftop, Tasos Mantis' one-Michelin modern-Greek tasting room.

Metaxourgio courtyard restaurant, Gikas Xenakis' one-Michelin contemporary tasting menu.

Aiolou loukoumas counter, the chapter's classical-Greek sweet, fried-to-order.

Lefteris Lazarou's Piraeus marina seafood room, one Michelin star, the canonical Athens-Riviera fish dinner.

Pangrati five-chef collective, contemporary-Greek, Bib Gourmand, the city's most-booked Tuesday.

Athens institution since 1920, Piraeus-port origin, contemporary chef-led set menu, family fourth generation.

Koukaki rising small-plate room, modern-Greek, Acropolis-side, the chapter's Koukaki anchor.

Athens' canonical two-Michelin-star room, Pangrati side street, restored neoclassical, classical-French foundation.

Pangrati mezedopoleio, the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri taverna, regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.

Pangrati taverna since 1926, barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Upper-Plaka taverna since 1927, courtyard, charcoal grill, the working-Athenian institution above the tourist belt.

Working-class cellar since 1887, Athens Central Market lunch room, no signs, two doors, the city's most stubbornly itself room.

Plaka souvlaki stall since 1946, six stools, a charcoal grill, the canonical pita.

Working-class pork-chop room since 1955, Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.

Vouliagmeni cliff-edge fish room, Athens-Riviera summer lunch, the rocky-cove view.

Astir Palace Vouliagmeni Nobu sister room, Greek-Mediterranean Nobu canon, Athens-Riviera location.

Exarchia tsipouro-and-meze room, the alternative-quarter mezedopoleio canon.